The Dead Sea has always had such a mystery about it. With rumours of its healing ability, its rich history, and, because of it's location of being wedged between Israel, Jordan, and the West Bank, the fact that it's heavily protected, it's no wonder. People from all over the world flock here, whether it be for medicinal purposes, historical or religious purposes, or just to experience floating effortlessly atop the water.
The Dead Sea has a high concentration of oxygen (said to be great for those who suffer from asthma, COPD, cystic fibrosis, bronchitis, etc), low UV radiation levels (which decreases the risk of sunburn and harmful damage from UV rays), and a high concentration of minerals within the water (great for psoriasis, fibromyalgia, etc). There are even certain countries in Europe where health care insurance covers trips to the Dead Sea due to it's incredible healing capacity. Yet, despite its popularity, the Dead Sea is surprisingly not the most saline body of water in the world. Antarctica, Djibouti, Senegal, and Ethiopia all take the prize over the Dead Sea. Although, the Dead Sea does win out for the lowest point on Earth, at 431m below sea level. There are so many incredible draws to this body of water, and I couldn't wait to experience it.
I sat in the vehicle, listening to our guide talk about the history, and reading away in the Lonely Planet. I was bursting at the seams with excitement and expecting a big glorious lake full of brilliant healing waters. But as we drove closer, I was shocked to see that this once full, bursting body of water was no longer as such. Rather than an overflowing, enchanting body of water, the liquid was now severely retreating away from the shore, leaving a white dusting of salt crystals in its wake. I was devastated. I had no idea the Dead Sea was drying up! Maybe it's my own ignorance or naivety, but apparently this has been a huge concern for many years. (I guess I should have done some research before). And according to our guide (and the Lonely Planet), apparently many countries and organizations have been putting forth proposed solutions (and their inherent roadblocks) for many years now:
Could they pump water in from the Mediterranean Sea?
What about water from the Red Sea down south?
But then would that even preserve the richness of the water? (Of course not. The mineral concentration would be all out of whack and all the properties the water currently boasts would be no more.)
But would these efforts at least preserve the sea's existence?
Then there's the financial and political nature of getting the necessary countries on board and building the proposed pipelines. Would everyone agree to it?
Sigh. Who knows.
It's shrinking at a rate of more than 1 metre every year, and experts are suggesting the Dead Sea may not be around in 20 years if something isn't done. It's a terrifying fact... and thought. (Sorry to bring to light so many of these crazy issues in my posts... it's just been such a learning experience here and I want to share with you all these issues that matter so much to the people whom live in this part of the world, and have the potential to affect a large number of people.)
Thankfully, I've been blessed with the privilege to experience it at this moment in time.
So back to our arrival at the lowest point on Earth.
(FYI: The white colour along the rock line in the photos above is not water crashing against the shore, but rather a build up of salt crystals.)
Although you can technically pop in anywhere along the lake's coast, a good option when you're just passing through is to stop by a hotel and get a day pass. This allows you the ability to use their facilities to change, shower, or lay on the beach in a lounge chair. Much better than just stopping alongside the road and having police vehicles hanging around you (heavily protected area, remember).
We used the Holiday Inn for this purpose, and since we only had a couple hours, wasted no time getting into the water. Thus far Jordan has been fairly chilly - jeans and a t-shirt at best (and even then only for brief moments of the day before the down jacket goes back on). But the Dead Sea was gorgeous. I had no problem stripping down into a bathing suit. The temperature was about mid-20s and the water a bit colder than that. I took a few steps into the water and stood there. I'm not sure what I was expecting... maybe to be lifted up and floated off into the sea? (Hopefully not too far though, as the middle of the Dead Sea is also the Israeli border.) I took a few more steps until I was waist deep. Then I felt a weird pushing sensation, like I was wearing a life jacket on my hips. So I squatted down, lifted my feet off the sea floor, and the next thing I knew my feet were out of the water. All of a sudden it was like I was reclining back in a lounger... a Dead Sea lounge chair... as was everyone else around me.
It was such a cool sensation. You just sit there and you have no choice but to assume that position. However, with a good amount of effort you can still move around. You can also balance yourself just right and stand straight up or even sit cross-legged and float in the water like a genie (no treading or magic lamp necessary).
People were also floating on their bellies, looking as if they were floating right on top of the water. It looked pretty cool, so I thought I'd try it too. I went to flip on to my stomach and all of a sudden the power of salt whipped me over and my legs shot straight up into the air, arching my back into a very unnatural and painful position. I flipped back over on to my back, but it was too late. The waters that were meant to heal my body had just tweaked my back causing crazy amounts of pain.
Great. Just great.
I feel like this is a prime example of why you shouldn't do something just because everyone else is doing it.
Maybe mud would help. After all, Louis Litt does speak very highly of mudding.
I hobbled out of the water and joined up with the group members already crowding around the two big buckets of thick, black, mud. We dunked our hands into the communal buckets and began caking our entire bodies, head to toe.
The Dead Sea mud is said to have restorative, healing properties, so we were careful to make sure no inch of visible skin was missed. After a few photos and a bit of time to let the mud dry in the sun and really infuse it's magic, we jumped back into the water to let the sea wash it all off. Everything except your face that is. Never, ever dunk your head into the Dead Sea, or let that water anywhere near your eyes (or, as I was pre-warned, shave your legs within two days of arrival). Just no. Unless you want to die a thousand deaths of burning pain. That's what the freshwater showers are for. There were a couple freshwater showers on the beach to rinse off your face and get all salt water rinsed off your body, so we high-tailed it over to them when we were done... followed by some lounging in the sun.
Despite wrecking my back, I was really loving the Dead Sea. The novelty of floating (and being able to read a book if you wanted), the warm sun, the mudding... it was all fantastic! It was a little spa-like experience as you gaze out towards the looming mountains of the Israeli border. We asked if people ever tried to sneak across, but were told that was a straight up no. Not only are boats not allowed on the water (and would therefore be spotted in an instant if one appeared), but swimming is next to impossible due to the high salinity (which is true... I tried to swim. It doesn't work). And finally, apparently it's so heavily protected by Israeli and Jordanian forces that it's not even worth an attempt. I didn't press any further.
I could have easily stayed there longer, but sadly we were only slotted to be here for a couple of hours. We'd also planned to visit Mount Nebo today, which was due to close around 4:00pm (hence the quick stop-over). So we showered up and made the drive from 400m below sea level to 800m above sea level.
Mount Nebo is a significant historical site, and a holy place for Judaism, Christianity, and Islam. This is the place at which Moses climbed to as he spoke to God and looked out into the Promised Land that he would never live to see. It was also the place where he died shortly after this experience. And sure enough, as you stand atop Mount Nebo, on the Western ridge of the ancient plains of Moab, you look out towards the Holy Land of Isreal. The Dead Sea, the valley of the Jordan river, the mountains from Hebron to Nablus, and on clear days: Bethlehem, the Mount of Olives in Jerusalem, the Herodian fortress of Herodium, Jericho, and Ramallah. It's quite surreal to know you're standing on the same ground that Moses once did, looking out at the same point he once did. Just amazing.
We then travelled to Madaba, a town where Christianity is more prevalent, although not much more (maybe 2% of the town's population, according to our guide). However, it's enough of a presence that things were visibly different (ie. there were liquor stores). In Jordan, to own a restaurant or hotel that serves alcohol, you must be a Christian. Muslims are not allowed to do so. It was very surprising to see, and also to see that there were Jordanian wines and multiple types of beers - everything from Petra to Amsel, to Dead-Searious and a Red Sea beer infused with pomegranates and blood oranges. That afternoon our coffees came courtesy of McCafe at the local mall, and dinner was from Ayar, a foodie-recommended Lebanese restaurant down the street from our hotel, complete with a Petra beer and late night Jordanian wine.
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On our last full day in Jordan we set off to explore Jerash. Jerash is just over an hour's drive north of Madaba and has the best preserved Greco-Roman city in the world (known as Gerasa). It's a beautiful drive up north, past Amman. One of the most striking differences between this drive and the ones we had down south, is that the mountains in the north are bursting with greenery. The mountains down south are quite rocky and barren, with very little colour. In contrast, the drive up north was bursting with colour.
We also drove past areas that held refugee camps, although they were indiscernible from the local housing around them, having been well integrated into society. Now, I can't speak for all the refugee camps of Jordan, given that Jordan hosts many refugees and I know very little about the ever-evolving situation, but it was nice to see at least some sense of integration and acceptance in this area. Our guide spoke very highly of the many Syrian refugees whom Jordan has welcomed and we discussed the rights and accesses they had. I won't say any more, as I don't know all the details, but talking about it really made me miss working in the humanitarian sector. One day... one day I'll go back.
But speaking of back... back to Jerash.
Although still mostly uncovered, the ruins of Gerasa are in excellent shape. It boasts the longest preserved street in the world, at 800m in length, and in places you can still see the ruts from the carriage wheels on the streets. They currently have active teams working to preserve and uncover more of the city, which we were able to witness as we spent the day wandering around, exploring in the sunshine. It's an absolutely massive area, from the Victory Arch, to the hippodrome, Philadelphia gate, the Corinthian columns, the temple of Artemis, and the Forum's Oval colonnade.
We wandered through the ruins, knowing full well that we could be walking on earth that held entire neighbourhoods beneath us. We scaled steps in theatres, descended into temple rooms below the ground, admired the incredible detail that still remains of the hand-carved columns and walls, and imagined all the beauty they once held.
Tired from a day in the sun, we feasted on falafels and sweet desserts as we began the drive back to Madaba. Jordan has an incredible history and such a grandeur to even the most seemingly mundane street. It's a place I've always dreamed of going to, and am beyond grateful that I was given the opportunity to discover even a small portion of this amazing country. The food, the people, the history, the culture... it's all been even more than I imagined it to be, and one day I hope to visit it again (but next time with M in tow).
Then just like that, the last Petra beer was drank, the last morning McCafe Spanish latte consumed, and with packed bags and PCR results in hand, we made our way to AMM. It was sad to say good-bye to Jordan, but we didn't have to say good-bye to the Middle East just yet. By a happy coincidence the flight back to Canada had a full day layover in Turkey.
Get ready Istanbul... I'm coming back!
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